PHAT KAPHRAO, Thailand

Executive summary by darmansjah

The Thai word kaphrao means ‘holy basil’, which is the essential ingredient in this stir-fried dish. In pha kaphrao, the plant is combined with some protein-typically minced pork or chicken, but it can also be seafood-along with coarsely chopped garlic, chillies and, sometimes, chopped yardlong bean. The dish is seasoned with fish sauce and a pinch of sugar, served over rice and usually crowned with a fried egg.

ORIGIN Phat kaphrao is a relatively recent introduction to Thai cuisine and didn’t become commonplace until about 50 years ago, although Thai holy basil has been a well-used local ingredient for a long time. In ancient India, the herb was used in ayurvedic medicine and is considered a sacred plant among Hindus. Like much Thai street food-and particularly because phat kaphrao is work-fried-the dish most likely has at least partial Chinese origins.

TASTING Unlike other Thai street dishes, there generally aren’t vendors who specialize only in phat kaphrao. Typically, the dish is found at ‘made-to-order’ carts, stalls and restaurants. These establishments do a huge variety of dishes, and can be recognized by a tray of raw ingredients. A diner will generally have a look at what ingredients are available and place their order directly with the cook. The steaming dish will emerge from the work a few minutes later. Although phat kaphrao is predominately salty and spicy, it is always served with a small bowl of finely sliced chillies in fish sauce, and sometimes a squeeze of lime-the Thai equivalent of the salt shaker.

Finding It any raan ahaan taam sang, or ‘made-to-order’, restaurant or stall in Thailand will serve phat kaphrao (US$1-US$1.60).